A Travellerspoint blog

Friday 12th March - Tuesday 16th March

Mirleft to Sidi Ifni

Friday 12th March

Somewhat disappointed with Aglou Plage, we headed further down the coast to the town of Mirleft. It was a nice drive, with deep blue sea on one side and green hills on the other. Arriving in Mirleft we drove around trying to find the campsite, before finding it tucked away down some rough town roads towards the sea. The main part of the small town was set by the road, back away from the sea. Then towards the sea homes were built, well streets but the roads hadn’t really been started. The campsite was a lovely small walled parking area, like someone’s back garden.


It was still early, so off we headed for a walk down to the beach on one of the bays. We decided to spend the rest of the day on the beach in the sun, until a rain shower put an end to that.



Later we took a walk over into the small town and had a wonder around the main couple of streets. It was a lovely friendly place, with lots of small artisan shops selling local craft. We then stopped for a mint tea at the hotel Atlas, a charming and cosy place. We found a spot on the balcony and watched the comings and goings of the street below. After the tea we realised they sold wine, so in a speakeasy style we purchased two glasses. There we met and got chatting to a nice British couple, who were staying at the hotel. As it got dark and chillier we headed downstairs, although we were not allowed to drink the wine downstairs. Instead of finally trying a Tagine, we opted for a very nice pizza.

We got back to the campsite in the dark and arrived to find the gate shut, latched and no one there! After a few attempts, in the end we managed to get the gate open and back to the motorhome.

Saturday 13th March

Headed further down the coast to just outside Sidi Ifni, a bay called Legzira. This bay is famous for it’s red rock arches into the sea. So after a drive down a steep track, we arrived just above the couple of small hotels and cafes on the bay. We paid the guardian 20Dh to be able to sleep there the night and parked up over looking the bay.


We had a stroll over to the stunning red stone arches, but we couldn’t really go under them as the tide was still in.


So headed back for some light lunch overlooking the beach at the small hotel. After a large group of para-gliders turned up, we decided to take another walk down to the arches.


They were pretty spectacular, against the Atlantic ocean. Just like most Moroccan beaches though, there was plastic and litter all over the beach, a sad state of affairs. Plastic, it has moved us so far forward and yet is destroying so much.

Sunday 14th March

Arrived at the coastal town of Sidi Ifni, which today was when they held their local souq. Sidi Ifni was until 1969 in Spanish hands, it is a port town with 1930’s art décor buildings. Today it is slightly dishevelled looking, but still has some elegance about it.


We parked up at a campsite near the beach and walked to the souq. It was slightly smaller than the one in Tiznit, but was dry under foot and more open. We spent a long time wandering, looking, buying veg and being told to come look at the rugs or jewellery. I met one friendly ‘blue man’ stall owner and he showed me his photos of where he lived in the Sahara with his father’s camels. We had a good chat and I bought a small necklace from him.


Later I had a walk back into town to get some meat for my tea, a treat, as I am pretty much a virtual veggie at present! Only through ease of not cooking two meals and the fact it’s cheaper eating veg. Anyway, after I purchased some lamb off the bone, although it wasn’t what I intended on buying! I was looking forward to getting back and cooking it. On the way back I was sitting overlooking the bay and all the surfers, when I got chatting to a local musician called Badir. We each had a play on his guitar and a chat before I went and saw where his little café was. He said he knew some other musicians and they often played later at night in the café. I said I would try to get back later for some music and headed back to the motorhome.

After lovely meat dish and some wine, I never managed to venture back up the hill into town.

Monday 15th March

After some motorhome chores, headed out down the coastal path for a walk.


The path ended pretty much just on the beach, so we took a walk down that instead. On the way we got chatting to Aziz, who lived in Sidi Ifni. He was a real interesting guy, talking about Morocco. He offered us to sit with him and his friend on the beach, join them for a tea. After a short walk down the beach we headed back and joined Aziz and now a couple more of his friends, sitting relaxing and chatting on the beach. It was very friendly and welcoming of them and we shared mint tea, discussing the realities of living in Morocco. The big divide between rich and poor, the government and police still being corrupt and the money never making it back down to the people. Like many a struggling nation their hands are tied by the politics and corruption of the country. We have the simple freedom to be able to travel to other countries, we have our rights in law to be able to challenge a verdict. All though we have these things in sorts, imagine against a corrupt controlling authority. Money can pay your way out, having no money means no option, a very unjust way.

After the sun started getting lower and the heat dropped a little, we said our thank you’s and goodbye’s and headed back to the motorhome. I took another wonder into town to see the musician guy from yesterday. I ended up in his café for some time playing songs with him and his friend. Before bumping into some of the lads from the beach on my way back to the motorhome.

Tuesday 16th March

We decided on heading off today and on with the journey as we still had a lot more we wanted to see of Morocco. Went back inland to a campsite that had some hot thermal baths, we had been told about. In the evenings the baths were open to mixed Europeans, as in the day the men and women have separate baths. We parked up at the springs and we met again the lovely Jones family, who were from New Zealand originally. The have travelled far and wide but at present have a big wheeled 4x4 motorhome, come small truck, to see them around Morocco.


At night we headed into the thermal bath, not really knowing what to expect. Both of us never having been to one. Well it was like taking a bath in a swimming pool, in your swimming stuff with other people! Was very nice although strange, but warm and relaxing.

Posted by marklorna 12:46

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